StrasBOURG

It’s Germany… in France!

In fact, Strasbourg (and the entire region of Alsace) has something of an identity crisis. Its history dates back to well before 1000 BC (BCE is for sinners!) when the Celts founded it. Since then, its governing body has been a little inconsistent: the Holy Roman Empire, then a period of independence, then the French, then it was independent again, then the French again, then the Germans, then independence, then French but they pretended they were independent, then the Nazis, and finally the French. You can see how they might be a little confused.

German or French, independent or not, Strasbourg is a really quaint and likable city. The locals speak any combination of French, German, and English, and if you look lost, they might even show you to your hotel (true story and unheard of anywhere else in France). The buildings would likely give any other Frenchman a heart attack – what, having color and all. So let’s explore this unFrench, French city.

The first thing you will notice: the giant, orange-ish Cathedral. Guess which one it is.

That’s another blog.

The second thing you will notice: Strasbourg sits on the Ill River. This can only mean one thing. Boat tour!

Warning: the boat had a glass canopy, so many of the following pictures are discolored or have a glare. Deal with it.

Colorful buildings. (No doubt important, I forget their purpose. Mozart may have given a concert in one of them during his childhood.)

Can we also agree the sky is pretty in this picture too?

The meeting of two rivers.

That tower had something to do with torturing criminals before imprisonment. It is pretty old. There are three others around.

On the opposite end of the city, the European Parliament.

Strasbourg is the official seat of the European Parliament and considered the Legislative capital of Europe. It is truly an international city. This explains why nearly everyone in Strasbourg knows English really well (no complaints here).

There is also a nice Human Right’s building.

It was constructed only recently and is the seat of the International Institute of Human Rights.

Back on solid ground, let’s head to the south side of Strasbourg and visit the neighborhood known as Petit France.

It’s a district of traditional buildings, narrow streets, little boutiques and restaurants/cafés. It also has the most photographed attraction in Strasbourg.

It’s the building on the center-left. Why is it photographed so much? No one knows.

You can see a lock that raises/lowers boats to the appropriate water level.

Q: What would a tour of the city be without a sample of the local cuisine?
A: Worthless.

Just like Lyon has bouchons, Strasbourg has what they call ‘winstubs’ (pronounced "wine-stub"). They serve traditional Alsatian dishes which are much more hearty, meat-and-potatoes, home cooking fare. And there is nothing wrong with that.

We chose Chez Yvonne, a Strasbourg institution.

Greeting us at the table was some headcheese.

Cooked meat in gelatin. I wasn’t the biggest fan. The texture was a little concerning and the flavor wasn’t all that good.

I ordered veal knuckle.

The meat around the outside was as tender and flavorful as they come (the gravy was also pretty good). The best part, though, was the bone marrow in the center: it melts in your mouth (not the bone). The ratatouille in the jar was just as it should be: warm and pickled.

There was also coq au vin.

The chicken was a little bland, but the sauce was really good. And the strudel that came with it…

… was almost as good as the strudel at Epcot (Orlando, Florida – tell them Katie sent you).

But the best dish was the pork knuckle.

It looks a little barbaric, but the meat from this pig was unbelievably good. Even the gravy, which admittedly looks weak, was flavored perfectly. And the potatoes.

The potatoes were heaven.

Paired with a Pinot Noir and Riesling, both typical wines of the region, that is a good meal.

And last but not least (likely the most important), the local pastry.

The Kugelhupf. Just try and pronounce that word. I dare you. However you say it, that little cake (which can also be HUGE) is pretty near perfection. It’s cooked in a special ceramic dish that would make a great Christmas gift if you ask me (I’m just saying). The cake has raisins and almonds, a tender crumb (almost brioche-like), and a faint sweetness. With coffee, that is a good breakfast.

Other Alsatian food staples (that I ate but didn't take a picture of): Pretzels, sauerkraut and sausage, onion tart flambée (like an onion quiche).

I liked Strasbourg. I might even say I loved Strasbourg. Maybe it was the (slight) resemblance to Frankenmuth -- Michigan's Little Bavaria (Say hello to fun. Say hello to Frankenmouth!), although I didn’t find any put-put golf courses or indoor pools. Maybe it was a view like this:

Or maybe it was this one:

Whatever the reason, Strasbourg is a good place. A very good place, indeed.